Monday, March 12, 2018

宣久 (Thank You in Rokakoen)

秋刀鮪だし 宣久


秋刀 = Sanma; Pacific Saury
鮪 = Maguro; Tuna
だし = Dashi; broth


So, this shop is making a broth out of two kinds of rarely used fish. That should be interesting enough, but for me the reason to come here is a bit deeper. This is the shop that formerly housed Ivan Ramen, one of the most important shops in the global history of ramen. When Ivan moved his operation to New York, he decided to pass this one off to his staff, who kept some things and changed up the rest.


The noodles are very reminiscent of Ivan's, who was one of the first people in Japan to use whole grain wheat in his noodles. The soup, however, is a completely new concept.

Fish is underutilized in ramen, apart from niboshi, which is everywhere. Things like sanma and maguro usually only make it into a limited bowl; sanma is one of the signals that autumn has arrived. Both fish are hearty and full of oils that give the soup a deep, oceany flavor.


The second floor is still a noodle room, and the noodles at Thank You are amazing.


Another nod to the past is the roast tomato, a signature topping of Ivan's ramen.


This is Matsumoto-san. And this is his ramen. I remember him working hard under Ivan, and this new shop really shows that he mastered the craft.


Thanks for the tomatoes!


Tokyo, Setagaya-ku, Minamikarasuyama 3-24-7
5 minute walk from Rokakoen Station

Open 11:30-14:30, 18:00-21:00
Closed Wednesdays